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TYPES OF RETAINING WALLS

Retaining walls can be grouped into three distinct categories by considering the way in which they resist the lateral pressure exerted by the soil and any surcharge.

• Gravity retaining walls These walls use their own weight and any captured soil/fill weight to resist the lateral soil pressure figure 1.
• Piled retaining walls These walls use the embedded depth of vertical posts and the strength of the posts to resist lateral soil forces figure 2.
• Cantilever retaining walls These walls cantilever vertically from the concrete footing and typically resist overturning by the mass of the soil/material on the heel of the footing figure 3.

Within these three categories a number of different and innovative concrete retaining wall types are available. Some manufacturers offer technical support, in the form of brochures showing engineer-designed details, for their particular wall type.

RETAINING WALL SYSTEMS

Reinforced concrete masonry walls

Reinforced and core-filled hollow concrete blocks are laid on a reinforced concrete footing to form a cantilever retaining wall. This is an extremely popular system offering benefits that include zero lot lines, a vertical wall face and a range of possible finishes. They are economical to around 3 m in height.

Reinforced concrete walls

Cantilever retaining walls can be constructed entirely from reinforced concrete. The wall can be either cast insitu, or precast. The exposed vertical face can be treated in many ways, including the use of textured form liners to give particular patterns or motifs.

Dry-stacked segmental concrete masonry walls

Low-height retaining walls (generally 1.2 m and less) can be constructed from dry stacking specially-manufactured interlocking segmental 

concrete masonry units. The walls behave as a gravity wall. The face of the wall may be vertical, stepped or sloped depending on the units used. The units are available in a variety of colour and face finishes. They are extremely popular for DIY installations as they are easy to erect.

 

If you are planning to remodel your bathroom – tiles should be your first choice of floor and wall covering. Available in a wide variety of styles, sizes, designs and textures – tiles give bathrooms a well finished and aesthetically pleasing appearance. They are also the most practical solution for wet areas as they are waterproof, easy to clean, exceptionally durable and able to cope well in high traffic areas.

Nano technology

Glazed ceramic and glazed or polished porcelain tiles are an especially popular choice, The most practical option for bathrooms; glazed ceramic or porcelain tiles are resistant to water, moisture and stains. They are also available in the widest variety of colors and designs, are very durable and long-lasting, and they are generally easier on the pocket than other options. However, until recently, the use of polished porcelain tiles had a very limited use in bathroom areas because their smooth, high gloss, polished surface made them exceptionally slippery when wet.

The above dilemma was recently resolved with the introduction of Nano pre-sealed technology. Nano technology is a great new innovation in tile manufacturing that can make a really big difference to the functionality and appearance of a tile. The end result is achieved by applying the lightest and strongest organic Nano particles, which can be compared to a type of wax, onto the surface of polished porcelain tiles.

A process called plating is used to ensure that these particles are evenly spread on the tile’s surface, which is applied using high pressure sanding and polishing. The plating process is repeated a number of times until the Nano organic particles eventually combine with the surface of the tile to form an organic Nano film that is lustrous, exceptionally dense and durable.

Benefits of tiles that boast Nano technology:

Exceptional slip-resistant qualities: The protective layer on the surface of any Nano tile is produced from a non-hydrophilic substance with a high skid resistance, making them a great choice for wet areas.

 A high gloss sheen: Common polished tiles have a gloss rating of 50% to 70%, while the Nano pre-sealed polished tiles boast a gloss rating of 90%, giving them and incredible lustre and a mirror-like finish.

Added durability: Nano tile technology ensures increased strength, and enhances the density and durability of the tiles, ensuring that they look as good as new for longer.



Effective hygiene control: Nano tiles boast auto-clean and anti-bacterial properties. Not only is this a very convenient feature, but these tiles also require far fewer cleaning products to keep them looking good, which is good for the environment as well. Unlike materials such as travertine for example, Nano tiles are well sealed and smooth to the touch – so mould, fungus and mildew cannot grow in any porous cavities.

A greener option: Only environmentally-friendly materials are used in the manufacturing of Nano tiles – they don’t contain any chemicals, such as toluene or chloroform for example, which are harmful to the environment. The organic materials used are entirely non-toxic, transparent, odourless and colourless.

PAVER SEALER APPLICATION

 Benefits of Using a Sealer on Your Paved Area:

• Helps ease the removal of oil and grease, which can arise on driveways.
• Improves the look of old age pavers.
• Brightens up rich colors.
• Makes concrete pavers water resistant.
• Enhances slip resistance on some pavers, making them ideal for use around the pool area.
• Applying the sealer is simple.

Many products are available today, to help with the maintenance of brick, concrete, natural stone, slate, granite, marble, and flagstone pavers. It is important to maintain them by using Cleaners and Sealers.

Applying a Sealer to Your Pavers

Note: Before applying any type of Sealer to any new or existing paved areas, it is recommended that you always consult the advice of the manufacturers on the right type of sealer for your project!!

Step 1: Cleaning and Preparation

Once you have chosen the appropriate sealer for your the paved area, it is very important for the pavers to be cleaned free of dust, leaves, dirt and debris. Removing hard stains, like oil and grease is quite simple when using a cleaning agent specifically for oil and grease. The pavers must then be dried free of any water.

Under some circumstances where the pavers have not been left to dry properly cracking and lifting can occur, because the sealer was not able to  penetrate through and instead, it just lie on top of the pavers.

Also, make sure that your pavers are free of cleaning agents before the application of a sealer.

Step 2: Apply the First Coat of Sealer

Seal away! Brushes or rollers can be used to apply sealers. Make sure you check the manufacturer’s guides before using their products. Some types of freshly paved areas may need to cure before applying sealers, especially where cement has been used. However, most pavers can be sealed right after being installed.

Step 3: Applying the Second Coat

You will need to check the manufacturers instructions for when to apply a second coat. For most penetrating sealers you can apply a second coat once the first coat has been left to 'semi-dry'. This will help ensure that the sealer has done its job. There is no limit, or guideline to how many coats should be applied. Different products work different ways. And different paver types have different absorption rates.

Deep penetration of the sealer is most important, so keep your eye on the pavers, as the color starts to dim that’s when you’ll know it’s penetrating through.

If you have decided to use a film former sealer, this will only protect the surface whereas a penetrating sealer deeply penetrate about 1 to 4 mils through the pavers.

Step 4: Drying Time

Leave the area to dry for at least 24 to 48 hours before walking on. You can test the pavers to see if they have dried with your fingers. Always make sure you read the manufactures instruction and important information on all sealing products. Remembering to that different stone types need different sealants.

CONCRETE PAVERS Installation Guide

10 easy steps for Do-it-Yourself Installation of Paver patios, driveways & pool decks.

Step 1 Planning
Start with a good level Measure and draw a diagram of the area you want to pave, noting any existing structures such as buildings, fences and other paved areas.

Step 2 Preparing
Contact your local utility companies before you begin excavation. Stake out an area approximately 12” larger than the area to be paved. Plan to slope the paving away from the buildings in the direction of normal drainage. Make sure that you have 90º corners at your starting point. You can do this by using the 3-4-5 triangle method. From the corner stake measure 3’ across the base and 4’ up the side. The diagonal line joining these two points should be 5’. If it is not, adjust the 4’ side until the diagonal is exactly 5’.

Step 3 Excavating
Where there is only pedestrian traffic, a base of 4”-6” of processed gravel is recommended. To achieve this, excavate 7”-9” to allow for base material, sand and pavers. Where there will be vehicular traffic or around pools a base of 6”-8” of processed gravel is recommended. To achieve this, excavate 9”-11” deep. Make sure to excavate 12” beyond the area you plan to pave.

Step 4 Installing the Base
Compact the surface of the excavated soil with a plate compactor (you can rent these). In small areas a hand tamper may be sufficient. Fill the area with 3/4” minus crushed stone or aggregate approximately 5” thick. Compact this with the plate compactor. Wetting the gravel lightly with water will help with the compacting. When you can walk on the gravel without causing an indentation you can add the next layer of gravel and compact it. Continue to add gravel in layers until the base is approximately 3” to 3-1/2” from the desired level of the finished grade. Make sure to slope the surface for water drainage. The slope should be 3/16" per foot. Install a level line across the area using a line level. On the stake that is at the end you want to slope towards, move the line down 3/16" for every foot of pavement. For example, if your pavement will be 8’ long, move the string down 1”. Measure the distance from the line to the base. The distance should be equal all along the line. For example, if your pavement will be 8’ long, move the string down 1”. Measure the distance from the line to the base. The distance should be equal all along the line.

Step 5 Installing the Restraints
Edge restraints should always be used to prevent the pavers from rolling or spreading. You can use PVC, aluminum, concrete or pressure-treated wood. Precast concrete curbs are recommended because they are easy to install, are very durable and will accent your paving stone. Use the 3-4-5 triangle method to make sure that all corners are exactly 90º.

Step 6 Screening the Bedding Sand
Before you can lay the pavers, a bed of sand must be prepared. Use 1” outside diameter galvanized electrical conduit, strips of wood or other suitable material, such as screed rails, and place them 6’ to 8’ apart down the area to be paved. Measure the distance from the string lines and the screed rails at several points. If necessary, adjust the height of the rails by putting sand under them or trimming the base underneath if too high. Hand pack sand around the rails to hold them in place. Spread 1” of sand between the rails until it is slightly higher than the rails. Use a 2” x 4” board to drag across the top to smooth and level the surface. Fill in the low spots and repeat. Remove the rails and fill in the indentations with sand, and trowel smooth as you are laying the pavers. Do not step on, compact or wet the sand after you have finished screening.

Step 7 Layering Pavers
Starting in a 90º corner, lay the pavers in the pattern you have chosen. Work outwards keeping all joint lines straight. Use string lines pulled along joint lines and parallel to the edge restraints or, chalk lines snapped on the surface of the sand bed to keep the joint lines straight. Leave a 1/8” space between pavers. Periodically check the alignment of the rows by stringing a line along the front edge of the leading row. Each paver should touch the string. If adjustment is needed use a screwdriver and hammer to move it into place. Work off the pavers you have already installed but stay away from the edge so you do not disturb the sand bed. Install remaining edge restraints. Do not try to turn the pavers with curves in your laying pattern. Cut pavers to fit along the edge restraints.

Step 8 Cutting Pavers
Measure and mark the pavers to be cut with a marking crayon. A diamond blade wet saw, paver splitter or a hammer and chisel can be used to cut pavers. Always wear safety glasses. If possible, keep edge stones to one half paver.

Step 9 Compacting & Setting
Sweep the surface to remove any debris. Spread masonry sand over the surface, sweeping it into the joints leaving surplus sand on the pavers. Tamp the pavers down using the plate compactor. The excess sand on the pavers will cushion the surface and the vibration will assist in filling the joints. Spread more masonry sand if required. Make two or three passes at 90º to each other and re-sweep the surface.

Step 10 Finishing
Sweep the remaining excess dry sand over the surface filling the joints. You will have to repeat this over the next few days as the sand settles and the rain compacts it.

Stay tuned for upcoming tips, reviews and more.